Jambo! (Hello in Swahili) For the winter holidays 2009 the Thorne's in India went on African safari in Kenya and Tanzania along with Alli's parents from Butte, MT and Pam Georgeson, who is a co-worker of Alli's. The six adventurers left Bengaluru on December 25, 2009, returning January 5, 2010. The flight to and from Africa was via Emirates to Dubai and then onto Nairobi, Kenya. During the trip we spent two nights in Kenya's Amboseli NP, two nights in Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater CA, one night in Tanznia's Lake Manyara area, and four nights in Kenya's Masai Mara NR.
In Eastern Africa Swahili is the spoken language and the official language of both Kenya and Tanzania. Our guides taught us the rudiments of how to communicate with them - all in fun spirit of course as both guides spoke English quite well. As we moved about the countryside, it was interesting at how many folks, who had nothing to do with our visit, would give us a big smile and a hearty Jambo. Both Kenya and Tanzania are ex-British colonies; therefore, there is a high use of English. Although, as in India, when they really don't want you to know something, they go native on you.
Also, Southern Kenya / Northern Tanzania is the land of the Maasai people. Wherever we went, the Maasai were herding their cattle. It was interesting to discover the frequency of coincidence that their cattle were crossing the road we were traveling on - who needs speed bumps when you've got cattle on the road? They live on the plain in patriarchal family groups of mud huts surrounded by stick fencing, eking out a living with cattle and hunting. They have adapted well to the tourist, and can be quite pesky with the vehicle stops trying to sell you a trinket you cannot live without, which I suppose is why they move the cattle onto the road whenever the scout spots a tourist vehicle. The Maasai are always dressed in ethnic clothing and sporting elongated ear lobs. Women carry babies on their backs, and men carry their knife and spear holding vigilance to ways of old - truly tribal.
Immigration was a major issue during the entire trip. Alli's folks have a one-year, multiple entry, tourist visa to India, which on the surface means they can come and go. Due to some issues related to terrorist activities, India is revising the regulations governing the use of tourist visas. Alli's folks entered India Dec 3, and we all went to Nepal on Dec 11. Re-entering India on Dec 14 only to leave again on Dec 25. Somewhere between Dec 14 and Dec 22, India clamped down on holders of tourist visas, and we did not know if her parents could re-enter India at the end of our Africa trip. On Dec 24, India implemented new rules relaxing their position, and upon our exit from India to go to Africa, we had to plead our case to the exit Immigration official, complete with supporting documentation, that there was need for Alli's folks to return to India on Jan 5. Bengaluru has an excellent Immigration staff who did the right thing, both when we left India, and when we returned.
Getting into and out of Kenya is like going to Jamaica - hakuna matata (no problem). However, Tanzania takes its Immigration responsibilities very seriously, and we spent a lot of time at the Namanga border station getting into Tanzania. No forms, the wrong forms, no guidance, in the wrong line, in the right line to be told to get in another line to be told that was the wrong line, and then a bus load of other tourists showed up along with throngs of local traffic. Another exacerbating factor was the Tanzanian government implemented a rule Nov 15, 2009 that caught us all off guard. It costs $100 USD for a visa if you are a holder of a USA passport. NP, we had lots of USD with us, but the new rule only allowed for bills dated 2004 and above. Most of our money was 2003 and lower leaving us to scramble to scrape up enough USD to pay for the visas. We did, but it left a serious cash flow problem as most of our money for the trip was invalidated. Luckily, Tanzania accepted Kenya money in it's shops. So, lesson learned - do more research about changes in Immigration policy when traveling. The whole experience set us back by 2.5 hours, and we were late getting to the hotel that night, but were we ever glad to be there. More about that later.
We were extremely fortunate to find Eastern Africa green, as the previous two years had been drought years, and this season was starting off wet. Seeing the country green, and seeing animals grazing paints an entirely different experience than seeing animal withering due to drought. Fortunate, indeed.
A couple of technical notes about this report: Larrie remembered to take the GPS to track the trip in segments (he forgot it in North India and Nepal). The GPS data is presented via MapMyRide:
1) - For those adventurous souls that require close inspection of the trip with Google Earth, the
GPS data can be downloaded by trip segment in KML thus allowing upload of the KML to Google Earth to review the terrain in greater detail. [Google Earth is a way cool tool, and if you don't have it, consider getting it at Google Earth.] To download a segment: click on the MapMyRide tag embedded within the various reports. The link will take you to the specific MapMyRide entry for that segment. Look for a drop down with a green check mark on it labeled "Route" (upper left hand corner of the actual map) and then click on the "Open in Google Earth" link. A dialog box opens allowing you to save the Google Earth KML to your local machine. Then start Google Earth and do File Open, open the file just saved and use the power of Google Earth to wander around Africa.
2) - For those less adventurous (from a computer standpoint, but still wanting to visualize Africa), the GPS routes can be reviewed within the MapMyRide site; although, it doesn't provide the level of satellite detail Google Earth does.
3) - And for those big picture folks who really don't like messing in the details, a good generic map of our adventure is at the DK site.
Also, the pictures posted in the Picasa albums and embedded in these posts are from all the cameras on the trip. I think Alli's mom was the only person not to take a picture. Alli's dad and Pam's pictures will also be shown. Each photographer was interested in different topics and scenery; so, we have a mix of perspectives of the important. We all hope you enjoy the show.
2) - For those less adventurous (from a computer standpoint, but still wanting to visualize Africa), the GPS routes can be reviewed within the MapMyRide site; although, it doesn't provide the level of satellite detail Google Earth does.
3) - And for those big picture folks who really don't like messing in the details, a good generic map of our adventure is at the DK site.
Also, the pictures posted in the Picasa albums and embedded in these posts are from all the cameras on the trip. I think Alli's mom was the only person not to take a picture. Alli's dad and Pam's pictures will also be shown. Each photographer was interested in different topics and scenery; so, we have a mix of perspectives of the important. We all hope you enjoy the show.
Day 1 - Bengaluru to Nairobi
The flight from Bengaluru left at the humane hour of 10:30 am, and when flying from the international side of BLR, you get to eat at Pizza Hut - always a hit with Jessie, so pepperoni pizza for breakfast, it was. Emirates is a first class airline, and we were quickly on our way to Dubai. Upon landing in Dubai International, where we had a two hour layover, Alli, Pam, and Jessie went in search of a beef Big Mac - the first beef hamburger Alli has had in 16 months. She exclaimed it was the best Christmas dinner ever. Sated, we were off to Nairobi and the grand adventure. Dubai has a wonderful airport, full of shopping opportunities, McDonalds, Burger King, Star Bucks, and a host of other possibles. Upon our return from Africa, we had more time in Dubai (5 hours) to explore; although, that was from 10pm to 3 am. The Dubai airport is like a Las Vegas Casio though, so you really didn't feel like it was the middle of the night.
Each flying segment of the trip was a little over four hours long, which was easily managed given the lay over to walk around and stretch. We landed in Nairobi in the evening, and immediately got stuck in yet another Immigration jam. Kudos to Kenyan Immigration as they actually had people there to manage the queue, and we were sent down the hall to a different queue with virtually no one in it. As I said above, Kenyan Immigration is hakuna matata. Having found our baggage, and collecting the group, we went in search of DK. We were quickly whisked off to the Nairobi Hilton as a layover. Our first day went quite well, and we were ever so happy to be on vacation!
Day 2 - Trip to Amboseli NP (MapMyRide)
John, our guide from DK picked us up early in the AM. First we met another DK staffer for a tour briefing and to make final payment. Interesting note: you can write a personal check in Nairobi, Kenya, and it will clear your USA bank account within 10 days, but you have a devil of a time passing a check in Minneapolis. After visiting an ATM to get some Kenyan Schillings, and a store to get snacks, wine, and gin - we were very surprised and envious to find the store so well stocked, contrary to our experience in India. Across the street from the store were trees full of marabu storks standing a sentinel vigilance awaiting someone exiting the store to drop a bag of goodies cum stork rations. Fully provisioned, we headed South out of Nairobi towards Amboseli.
Our goal was to be at the lodge in time for lunch, but serious road construction diversions hindered our average speed, and we were late arriving at the lodge. The road from Namanga to Amboseli has to be one of the roughest, toughest, bumpy, potholed roads in the world, and John wasted no
time covering the 60 km to the lodge. Beastie sitings along the road were Maasai Giraffe. John indicated that it was rare to see them in the Amboseli region, and we saw 10 or so. Beautiful and graceful, they were. Shaken, rattled, but not rolled, we arrived and checked into the Amboseli Serena and late lunch. The rest of our Amboseli report is filed in Jambo! Amboseli Safari.
Day 4 - Day trip to Ngorongoro Crater (MapMyRide)
After a couple of wonderful days in Amboseli it was time for the big road trip to Ngorongoro. We were up early for breakfast, checked out, loaded up, and began the big bounce back across the Amboseli to Namanga road. Again, we were shaken and rattled across this SOB of a road, but not so badly that we would miss noticing giraffe's in the vicinity including one very big male that towered above all others and the trees.
After about 45 minutes we crested a rise, John slowed down and exclaimed, which brought our attention forward. Where two days prior a bridge across a trickle stood, only mud and debris was now evident. From our perspective, we were not sure an intact bridge remained. Pulling up to the proximal end of bridge, we observed that, in fact, the bridge was intact, but was covered in six inches of mud, three full trees of around 16" diameter, and a lot of other debris. The river was roiling and about as brown as water can get - liquid mud. New debris was constantly piling up on the bridge. We were the first vehicle stranded by the bridge. John and Larrie went out onto the bridge to survey the situation and to plot a crossing strategy. Larrie's first thought was "Maybe I should not have worn my Montana Mud Shirt today".The reason DK is split into DK and DT is that some law prevents the driver / guides / vehicles from spending too much time in either country. It has to do with legal definition of employment and payment of taxes - pretty much same-same in all countries. Needless to say, our itinerary called for us to walk across the border and get into a different vehicle; so, we knew we had a vehicle change in our future. John, upon recon of the bridge called the office in Nairobi for advice, and the plan was our Tanzania driver and guide, Sufuni, was to come into Kenya, meet us on the other side of the bridge, we would carry our baggage across the bridge, and we would continue on while John waited for the bridge to be cleared. Once the plan was in place, and Sufuni started his trip towards us, a number of other vehicles arrived on our end of the bridge, each bearing tourists in need of crossing the bridge.
Many hands make short work. With the help of all the drivers, and a few Maasai tribesmen needing to get cattle across the bridge, we cleared enough of the big debris away for vehicles to pass. First to cross was a Toyota Land Cruiser (4wd) to create ruts in the mud, then the vans followed. Larrie walked across behind our van in case John needed a push. However, once on the other side, John continued to drive away. Alli asked John if he was going to wait for Larrie to get back into the van, John looked shocked and realizing his mistake, stopped. All persons accounted for and loaded into the van, including a pretty muddy Larrie, we continued on and found Sufuni a couple of km down the road. We quickly transferred people and baggage into the Toyota Land Cruiser, and were off to Tanzania!In Namanga, we had to cross into Tanzania, and the Immigration woes are described above. Once on the the road again, we again ran into significant road construction diversions all the way to Arusha. Major traffic slow downs at Arusha significantly delayed progress through town. The days delays become significant when you tabulate them. The parks in Africa have strict rules - the gates are locked at 6pm, and where you sleep depends upon which side of the gate you're on at 6pm. So, up against a deadline, and with time slipping by, we quickly headed West. Once out of Arusha the road quality improved, and we made good time to the Ngorongoro gate.
Sufuni had to get us registered and pay the fees to enter the CA, so all of us went into the information center, enjoyed a cold Coke, and watched a downpour wash away the mud from Larrie's legs - left over from the morning bridge crossing. Leaving the gate, we proceeded up the wall of the crater and on to the Ngorongoro Serena through lush forest. (MapMyRide) The rest of our report is filed in Jambo! Ngorongoro Crater.
Day 7 - Lake Manyara to Masai Mara via Kilimanjaro and Nairobi
Two GPS files for this day, first is Lake Manyara to Kilimanjaro airport (MapMyRide), and second is the airplane ride from Nairobi to Masai Mara (MapMyRide). Interesting note about using a GPS programmed for bicycle riding on a plane - we were cruising about 300kmph, and when calculating calories burned, you burn a lot of calories at that speed.
The ride to the airport was uneventful, with the exception of stopping at an Indian / Italian restaurant in Arusha where we had the best pizza and some cold beer. The plane to take us back to Kenya was late arriving, and we left quite late. The plane was a twin engined Otter, and it was a hoot to ride in. Cruising at about 10,000 ft, we passed over the bridge (above) - it was not yet cleared. Landing at Nairobi Wilson airport, clearing Kenyan Immigration again, we re-boarded the same plane for the flight to Masai Mara. Apparently, four bush air strips are serviced by this plane, and ours was the last stop - Keekorok. So between the other three air strips, we enjoyed low altitude bush piloting. Although, I have to admit that once the awareness of not landing on air strips with standing animals sunk in, landing took on new significance.
Last stop, Keekorok, and John was there to greet us. Ever glad to see him again, we loading up and proceeded on a short evening safari towards the Sopa Lodge. The rest of our report is filed in Jambo! Masai Mara.
Day 11 - Back to Nairobi from Masai Mara (MapMyRide)
Another long drive ahead of us, we left early. We were in the bush, and the roads in the bush are pretty iffy, and it had been raining quite a bit, and we needed to be at the airport by 2pm. So, we got to it, taking some rain caused diversions due to washouts. John wanted to get fuel before we left the area, but the pump was dry. He mentioned that we had enough fuel to get to the next town with a pump [not all towns in Kenya have a gas pump in them, it turns out], and when Larrie sneaked a peek at the gas gauge it read empty. Not commenting to the group about this state, Larrie wondered if we were going to be treated to an "empty in the bush" experience. But, hey, hakuna matata, we got fuel where John said we would, and continued onto Nairobi.
One of the villages we passed through had been hit bad by a flash flood the night before, and buildings were buried in 2-3 ft of mud. A tour bus (think Greyhound in size) was buried up to it's windows in mud at the side of the road. Once we got to paved road, it was a fairly nice road all the way to Nairobi.
Arriving into the Nairobi area we ran into a monster of a traffic jam. We were worried about making the airport on time. We had hoped to stop by a book store to get some books on the animals and birds we witnessed on safari, but that idea was quickly abandoned as the traffic was especially thick by the bookstore. Needless to say, John maneuvered through the city, and we arrived at the airport exactly at 2pm. Whew!
Flight back to Bengaluru
Regular followers of the Tabbies will note our report of airport security practices during our Nepal trip. As mentioned before, Kenya is hakuna matata as we only endured a quick scan at the door of the terminal, with another at the gate. Neither of which was conspicuously sensitive to anything with the exception to Alli's dad, who seems to attract trouble at airport security checkpoints. Security personnel finally gave up on him and let him into the airport.
Flights home were uneventful. We had a five hour layover in Dubai in the middle of the night. Going to Africa, we hit Dubai at midday, but on the return trip, midnight. It would seem that the whole world visits Dubai in the middle of the night as the volume of persons increased dramatically.
Arriving at Bengaluru, breezing through Immigration, bagging duty free gin, and clearing customs, we walked out of the airport to meet Imtiaz - always a welcome sight at the end of a trip. Everyone was tired from being up for over 24 hours, and Alli needed to go to work that afternoon. Traffic was busy en route to Palm Meadows, and Imtiaz got us home in reasonably good time. It's a good thing that the horse knows his way home, as we were not much for talk, and I'm pretty sure most slept in the car during the hour and a half ride to the house.
With the first click of the key in the door, two tabbies greeted the missing with a warm home coming of purring and gentle bumps. Getting Alli into the shower in preparation for going to work, Larrie headed out on his bike to Domino's for pizza. Returning to the house with pizza in hand, Alli's folks were sound asleep, Jessie was fading, and Alli was going to work. So, pizza and a beer alone with the memories of days past.
Vacations are hard on you, but hey, the Thorne's in India would not have traded our African experience for anything. Astounding Africa!
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