Ngorongoro Crater - Creighton must have got the idea for Jurassic Park here (MapMyRide
Leaving the Ngorongoro gate late in the afternoon, we began the winding trip up the outer crater wall and around the rim to the lodge. The earthen road gained
altitude quickly in dense forests. At first breach of the rim, an overlook reveals the first view of the crater area above the Gorigor Swamp. The crater is about 23km across, and has an area of about 250 kmsq. It was about 4:30 - 5pm, the sky was pre-dusky and cloudy. Whisks of cloud segments scudded around below our vantage point, which was about 2300 ft. above the crater floor. Everything was green as only a rain shower can leave it, and the smell of fresh air was nectar to our Bangalorean sooted lungs.
After spending many minutes soaking it all up and taking some pictures, we continued our journey to the Serena Lodge. Along the rim road we saw a few Cape Buffalo and a few elephants. The elevation was around 7600 ft., and the inside wall of the crater was quite steep; so, I am guessing that animals are a bit sparse along the rim road. We passed a few Maasai moving cattle about the rim, where they are allowed to graze their cattle, but they cannot move the cattle into the crater.
The Serena is perched on the edge of the rim, and our rooms over looked the crater. It was an absolutely magical view. The lodge was a very pretty place, and followed the same pattern of service delivery as Amboseli.
Looking off our room balcony's, birds flitted about, a few of the smaller beasties traipsed through the surrounding forest, and the air - oh, you have to smell this air, it is just amazing. Our last encounter with air this fresh was atop a boulder field as a spring westerly blew the fragrance of the Bob Marshall towards us from the Chinese Wall. Clouds and storms moved through the area obscuring the view here and there, but as soon as they obscured they cleared. Wisps of fog below us came and went. Through the binoculars we could see animal
herds moving about the Mounds on the edge of Lake Magadi. Elephants moved back into the cover of the Lerai forest. Sunrises and sunsets were captivating to behold as colors radiated through the clouds and reflected off Lake Magadi in the center of the crater.
Day 5 - Dec 29 - Full Day in the Crater (MapMyRide)
We were off early as we had a full day ahead of us. Our new guide / driver, Sufuni, had gotten box lunches from the lodge and stowed into the Land Cruiser. Leaving the lodge, we had about 10 km to continue around the rim before dropping into the rim via the Seneto Descent Road. A ranger checkpoint exists at the descent road to check vehicles into the crater area - a different road is used to ascend out of the crater.
With about 2km prior to the descent, we had a flat tire. So, everyone out of the bus while Sufuni changed the flat, which took about 15 minutes to accomplish. The Land Cruisers carry two spares; so, one down, and one to go. A number of nearby Maasai came to witness and attempt to make a sale.
During the descent we saw many Wildebeest, Zebra, and Grant's Gazelle. As we were approaching Lake Magadi, and the first junction at the base of the descent road, Sufuni spotted a large male Lion walking through the grass over towards the Mounds. Quickly, we were off to see the king of beasts. He was about 75 m distant walking in six inch grass towards a patch of 3-4 ft tall grass. On the other side of him were a small herd of Wildebeest, and we originally thought he was setting up a stalk, but he stopped just short of the taller grass, looked over his shoulder and snickered at us, and then he disappeared into the grass. We would seem him again later in the day. The Wildebeest took notice of the king and kept warily grazing.
The animals in Ngorongoro appeared calm and relaxed. At Amboseli the animals were up and moving - almost skittish, the Ngorongoro critters lay in the grass basking in sunshine - even in full view of the local predators. There were few carcases about, which is an indication that the two year drought that severely impacted Amboseli had not impacted Ngorongoro as much. As noted in the Amboseli report, Amboseli was littered with carcases.
Backtracking to the junction, we started around Lake Magadi. Cape Buffalo, Zebra, lazy Hyena's, Warthog, and Ostrich were common. Not so common was the Jackal and the Common Eland. A big hit with Alli, Jessie and Pam were the baby Zebra's nuzzling and hiding under mom's protection. We encountered a few of these pairs quite close to the road, and the girls just "clicked" it up. Well, I guess, baby anything, because we saw a number of babies that day including warthog and rhino; although, not as close as the zebras.
As we rounded the lake, we looked out into the lake at the massive flocks of Flamingo that exist in the lake. A band of pink that looked to be a couple of hundred meters deep traversed the entire width of the lake, and another band was on the other side of the lake. At one point about 1/3 of this population of Flamingo was airborne as they repositioned themselves - "as seen on TV", and what a sight to witness in real time.
Eastern Africa has several large (flying) birds walking about, and we encountered our first - the Kori Bustard. We were to see several over the course of the trip. The Kori is a rather ungainly looking bird, and it puffs up its neck feathers when trying to attract females.
Continuing on to the far side of the lake towards Ilturot Lorkereyan we found many elephant, and several Black Rhino. The rhino were about 200m out, and again we discussed the need for a bigger and badder lens for the camera. Sufuni spotted a number of vehicles by the Gorigor Swamp; so, we went over to investigate what everyone was excited about. It was a pride of Lions - several females and cubs, no males. They were doing what cats do in the presence of sunlight, basking.
Lunch time approached and bladders needed relief, so we left the lions behind and headed for the Ngoitokitok Springs Picnic Site. En route, we passed an old tusker looking as though it might not be around much longer. A couple of other elephant skulls in the grass were noticed, raising the myth of this might be an elephant burial ground. However, lunch, or rather the need for a loo, was more pressing, so we pressed on.
The picnic site is on the edge of a pool of water with several hippo in it. So, while we ate, they surfaced and sank. As a lot of humans eat at this site, several rather insistent Guinea fowl inhabited the area scavenging a life from the invariably errant leftover. A bit more brave were the yellow Speke's Weaver birds that would fly right into the truck and pick up whatever they could before beating a hasty retreat. We were treated to a downpour while at lunch, which brings up the subject of soils. The soil in this part of Africa, from Ambosoli to the Serengeti, is clay and sand, more clay than sand, and when it gets wet, it is very very slippery. So, after the rain stopped, trying to get the vehicle moving again was a challenge.
We left the picnic area, and headed back around the lake on the high road hoping to see more big cats. We did find a large male / female laying in the grass looking very contented. We suspect it was a honeymoon, but do not actually know. A hard rain prevented us from getting good pictures; so, we continued on around the crater. Since it was raining, not a lot was going on and viewing was limited as we had to put the vehicle roof down.
On Sufuni's instinct, he headed up a road to the right. A lady lion walking down a high spot being very carefully watched by some wary zebras. While watching the lioness, we spotted a Cheetah crouched in the grass. The lion was about 125 meters away, and the cheetah was about 80 meters away. Again, we commented on the need for a new camera lens. Lions and cheetah's do not like each other, so the cheetah was staying out of the lion's path and awareness. Just as we were leaving this scene, Jessie caught a glimpse of a male lion that was the object of the female's intent. It was a day for lust in the dust, or I could say a.. in the grass, but that might be too crass.
Leaving the cheetah, we were tiring of the bounce and jumble, so we started towards the ascent road on the other side of the Lerai Forest. Passing through the same junction at the base of the descent road, we headed towards the Mounds where we saw the big male lion that morning. He was now sitting in the open, looking back towards the road, watching. A large male elephant close to the road, and we stopped to watch it for a bit while keeping an eye on the lion.
We then noticed three lions (male and two females) approaching the scene from the opposite side of the road - coming out of the scrub in the Mounds. Sufuni quickly repositioned the vehicle, and we got very close to the three lions as they crossed the road. Initially, they looked like they were stalking the elephant, but just when we thought they would attack, the two females playfully bumped and fell to the ground. The male continued on towards the lake, and the females followed after a few more romps in the grass. Leaving the lions, we made our way through the Lerai Forest to the ascent road. Ascending is more tedious than descending, which I suppose, when one ponders that relationship, is the way of things. After a number of switchbacks, and Sufuni trying 2nd gear only to discover that it was not a good choice, we again crested the rim and headed for the Serena, cold beer, and hot food.
Day 6 - Dec 30 - Ngorongoro / Lake Manyara (MapMyRide)
We were supposed to have another half day down in the crater. However, after a number of very early mornings, everyone wanted to have a slow morning, so we changed the program to getting up late, having breakfast, checking out, and moseying down to Lake Manyara.
Lake Manyara is a large lake in the Great Rift Valley in Tanzania. We only had one night there, and the stop was a backup to the original proposed but not booked itinerary, as the lodge at Ngorongoro was full (when the booking was actually made). Hakuna Matata! We stayed at the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge, which is up on the cliff overlooking the valley, not next the lake as its website picture would have you believe. It was a fairly short trip from the crater, and we were there in time for hot lunch, a swim, and a lazy afternoon including naps. The rim of the Great rift surrounding Lake Manyara is Baobob country, and these magnificent trees are quite different from anything we have ever seen before - like giant Jade Plants. Short and stocky, spreading their arms out and inviting life to come into its protection. No wonder the Baobob is used quite frequently as an metaphor for the tree of life.
Alli and Larrie went for a bike ride down through villages and banana groves. (MapMyRide)
Leaving the lodge area, we bounced along the road connecting the highway to the lodge, coasted down the highway to an overlook looking out over Lake Manyara NP, continued coasting down through a couple of troops of roadside baboons (think that out), and into the roadside village of Mto Wa Mbu. Turning left, we headed into the groves and did a little single track through the banana. They grow seven varieties of banana in Tanzania, and all were present in the groves we rode through. Alli has not ridden with Larrie in India, so this was all new experience for her.
While in the groves, the guide led us to a group of wood carvers living under tarps in the grove. They carved teak, ebony, and rosewood into a number of salad tongs, bowls, statues, and whatnot. They were from Mozambique, refugees mostly as they could not return to their home country. They settled here, and began the business of carving. After a nice presentation of wood types and carving, the real sell started, which we expected. We were told that their superior quality and price was way better that you get along side the highway. They were a nice lot, and we purchased a teak salad spoon set.
Emerging from the groves, we followed a country road back to the highway. Along the way, we met a number of folks out doing whatever it was needed doing, and they all gave us a big grin and a hearty Jambo. Glad to find the vehicle to return us up the hill to the lodge, as our butts were sore from the seats on the bikes, we clambered into the open topped safari vehicle and were off back to the lodge for dinner.
We would definitely return to the Ngorongoro area. On our next visit we plan to continue West into the Olduvai Gorge and the Serengeti, but only after spending a day or two witnessing the splendor of the Ngorngoro.
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